{"id":489,"date":"2025-08-20T07:09:48","date_gmt":"2025-08-20T07:09:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/cividep.org\/workers-observatory\/?page_id=489"},"modified":"2025-08-20T07:09:48","modified_gmt":"2025-08-20T07:09:48","slug":"extractive-labour-practices","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/cividep.org\/workers-observatory\/extractive-labour-practices\/","title":{"rendered":"Extractive Labour Practices"},"content":{"rendered":"\n[et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ admin_label=”Section” module_id=”intro” _builder_version=”4.20.4″ _module_preset=”default” background_color=”#efe7d7″ background_enable_image=”off” background_size=”custom” background_image_width=”42%” background_image_height=”42%” background_repeat=”repeat” custom_padding=”||3px|0px||” da_popup_slug=”intro” da_disable_devices=”off|off|off” global_colors_info=”{}” da_is_popup=”off” da_exit_intent=”off” da_has_close=”on” da_alt_close=”off” da_dark_close=”off” da_not_modal=”on” da_is_singular=”off” da_with_loader=”off” da_has_shadow=”on”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” max_width=”1211px” custom_padding=”||8px|||” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.20.4″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” header_font=”Prata||||||||” header_text_align=”center” header_text_color=”#514c47″ header_font_size=”100px” custom_margin=”7px||0px||false|false” custom_padding=”||0px|||” header_font_size_tablet=”81px” header_font_size_phone=”45px” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_css_main_element=”font-weight: 400|| ||” global_colors_info=”{}”]

Workers’ Voice<\/h1>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text content_tablet=”

Workers’ Voice brings you the true stories of garment workers, highlighting the challenges they face every day. Through infographics, we showcase their struggles with wages, working conditions, discrimination, and other human rights risks within global supply chains. Explore the realities of their lives and the strength they show in overcoming adversity.<\/span><\/p>” content_phone=”

Workers’ Voice brings you the true stories of garment workers, highlighting the challenges they face every day. Through infographics, we showcase their struggles with wages, working conditions, discrimination, and other human rights risks within global supply chains. Explore the realities of their lives and the strength they show in overcoming adversity.<\/span><\/p>” content_last_edited=”on|tablet” _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” text_font=”|700|||||||” text_line_height=”1.8em” header_font=”Prata||||||||” header_text_align=”center” header_text_color=”#2d2121″ header_font_size=”100px” width=”100%” width_tablet=”100%” width_phone=”92%” width_last_edited=”on|phone” module_alignment=”center” custom_margin=”24px|260px|28px|109px|false|false” custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”14px|15px|0px|15px|false|false” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” text_font_size_tablet=”18px” text_font_size_phone=”15px” text_font_size_last_edited=”on|desktop” header_font_size_tablet=”96px” header_font_size_phone=”50px” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_css_main_element=”font-weight: 400|| ||” global_colors_info=”{}”]

Workers’ Voice brings you the true stories of garment workers, highlighting the challenges they face every day. Through reports and infographics, we showcase their struggles with wages, working conditions, discrimination, and other human rights risks within global supply chains. Explore the realities of their lives and share their stories.<\/p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_button button_url=”https:\/\/cividep.org\/workers-observatory\/workers-voice\/#download” button_text=”Download Report” button_alignment=”center” _builder_version=”4.27.4″ _module_preset=”default” custom_button=”on” button_text_size=”24px” button_text_color=”#FFFFFF” button_bg_color=”#a3a3a3″ button_border_color=”RGBA(255,255,255,0)” button_border_radius=”32px” button_font=”Ubuntu|700|||||||” custom_margin=”23px||9px||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_button][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ custom_padding_last_edited=”on|phone” admin_label=”Section” module_id=”extractive” _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” background_color=”#efe7d7″ background_enable_image=”off” background_size=”custom” background_image_width=”42%” background_image_height=”42%” background_repeat=”repeat” custom_margin=”|-30px||-30px|false|false” custom_padding=”2px||115px|0px|false|false” custom_padding_tablet=”2px||115px|0px|false|false” custom_padding_phone=”|0px||0px|false|false” da_popup_slug=”extractive” da_disable_devices=”off|off|off” global_colors_info=”{}” da_is_popup=”off” da_exit_intent=”off” da_has_close=”on” da_alt_close=”off” da_dark_close=”off” da_not_modal=”on” da_is_singular=”off” da_with_loader=”off” da_has_shadow=”on”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” max_width=”1211px” custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_padding=”|0px|8px|0px|false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.20.4″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_divider color=”#E09900″ divider_style=”dotted” divider_weight=”3px” _builder_version=”4.20.4″ _module_preset=”default” width=”100%” custom_margin=”||23px|||” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_divider][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/cividep.org\/workers-observatory\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/Extractive-labour.png” title_text=”Extractive-labour” align=”center” _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” width=”100%” max_width=”29%” max_width_tablet=”34%” max_width_phone=”67%” max_width_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_margin=”-32px||10px||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” text_font_size=”22px” header_font=”Prata||||||||” header_text_align=”center” header_text_color=”#8e817c” header_font_size=”75px” custom_margin=”||0px|||” custom_padding=”||15px|||” header_font_size_tablet=”73px” header_font_size_phone=”38px” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_css_main_element=”font-weight: 400|| ||” global_colors_info=”{}”]

Extractive Labour Practices<\/h1>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” text_font=”|700|||||||” text_line_height=”1.8em” header_font=”Prata||||||||” header_text_align=”center” header_text_color=”#2d2121″ header_font_size=”100px” width=”100%” width_tablet=”100%” width_phone=”92%” width_last_edited=”on|phone” module_alignment=”center” custom_margin=”|260px|15px|109px||” custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”-6px|15px|0px|15px|false|false” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” text_font_size_tablet=”18px” text_font_size_phone=”15px” text_font_size_last_edited=”on|desktop” header_font_size_tablet=”96px” header_font_size_phone=”50px” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_css_main_element=”font-weight: 400|| ||” global_colors_info=”{}”]

Extractive Labour Practices refer to the exploitation of workers through excessive, unpaid labour under duress. Defined by the ILO, forced labour includes any work imposed on individuals under threat, without their voluntary consent. Rightful working conditions are a far cry for garment factory workers in India, who toil long hours to meet unrealistic production targets set by high-street brands, enforced by their Indian suppliers. Cividep\u2019s latest study reveals that 94% of Bengaluru’s garment workers endure grueling 9-hour shifts, often extending to 12 hours, with no respite in terms of pay or leave (see below infographic).<\/p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.27.2″ _module_preset=”default” text_font=”Ubuntu|700|||||||” text_text_color=”#444444″ text_font_size=”24px” text_line_height=”1.2em” header_font=”Prata||||||||” header_text_align=”center” header_text_color=”#2d2121″ header_font_size=”100px” header_2_font_size=”31px” min_height=”61px” custom_margin=”73px||-83px||false|false” custom_margin_tablet=”56px||||false|false” custom_margin_phone=”57px|15px|0px|15px|false|false” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_padding=”||||false|false” text_font_size_tablet=”18px” text_font_size_phone=”20px” text_font_size_last_edited=”on|desktop” header_font_size_tablet=”96px” header_font_size_phone=”50px” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” header_2_font_size_tablet=”31px” header_2_font_size_phone=”22px” header_2_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_css_main_element=”font-weight: 400|| ||” global_colors_info=”{}”]

A Day in the Life of Rangamma<\/h2>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.27.2″ _module_preset=”default” text_font=”Ubuntu|700|on||||||” text_text_color=”#E09900″ text_line_height=”1.4em” header_font=”Prata||||||||” header_text_align=”center” header_text_color=”#2d2121″ header_font_size=”100px” width=”100%” width_tablet=”100%” width_phone=”92%” width_last_edited=”on|phone” module_alignment=”center” custom_margin=”79px||-49px||false|false” custom_margin_tablet=”” custom_margin_phone=”14px|15px|0px|15px|false|false” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” text_font_size_tablet=”18px” text_font_size_phone=”15px” text_font_size_last_edited=”on|desktop” header_font_size_tablet=”96px” header_font_size_phone=”50px” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_css_main_element=”font-weight: 400|| ||” global_colors_info=”{}”]

Workers like Rangamma, who stitches shirt collars for high-end brands in a Bengaluru export factory, endure relentless pressure and abuse to meet impossible demands. Starting her day at 5:30 am, she faces verbal, physical, and sexual harassment throughout her shift. This graphic illustrates Rangamma’s exhausting routine, from early morning to midnight, highlighting the stress and exploitation she and her fellow workers experience. This systemic abuse has profound social and personal consequences.<\/p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_image src=”https:\/\/cividep.org\/workers-observatory\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/10\/extractive-labour-1.jpg” title_text=”extractive-labour-(1)” show_in_lightbox=”on” _builder_version=”4.27.2″ _module_preset=”default” custom_margin=”50px||||false|false” custom_margin_tablet=”50px||||false|false” custom_margin_phone=”-12px||||false|false” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” border_radii=”on|10px|10px|10px|10px” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row make_equal=”on” _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” custom_margin=”49px||||false|false” custom_padding=”0px||0px||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” background_image=”https:\/\/cividep.org\/workers-observatory\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/04\/bg2jpg.jpg” border_radii=”on|10px|10px|10px|10px” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” text_font=”|700|||||||” text_line_height=”1.8em” header_font=”Prata||||||||” header_text_align=”center” header_text_color=”#2d2121″ header_font_size=”100px” header_2_font=”|800|||||||” width=”100%” width_tablet=”100%” width_phone=”92%” width_last_edited=”on|phone” module_alignment=”center” custom_margin=”|260px|5px|109px||” custom_margin_tablet=”||33px||false|false” custom_margin_phone=”|260px|10px|109px|false|false” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_padding=”20px||||false|false” text_font_size_tablet=”18px” text_font_size_phone=”15px” text_font_size_last_edited=”on|desktop” header_font_size_tablet=”96px” header_font_size_phone=”50px” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_css_main_element=”font-weight: 400|| ||” global_colors_info=”{}”]

Worker Story<\/h2>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” text_font=”|700|||||||” text_font_size=”19px” text_line_height=”1.5em” header_font=”Prata||||||||” header_text_align=”center” header_text_color=”#2d2121″ header_font_size=”100px” header_2_font=”|800|||||||” width=”100%” width_tablet=”100%” width_phone=”92%” width_last_edited=”on|phone” module_alignment=”center” custom_margin=”|260px|31px|109px|false|false” custom_margin_tablet=”||33px||false|false” custom_margin_phone=”||||false|false” custom_margin_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_padding=”|19px||22px|false|false” text_font_size_tablet=”18px” text_font_size_phone=”15px” text_font_size_last_edited=”on|desktop” header_font_size_tablet=”96px” header_font_size_phone=”50px” header_font_size_last_edited=”on|phone” custom_css_main_element=”font-weight: 400|| ||” global_colors_info=”{}”]

Work Shouldn\u2019t Be Torture. But When Yelling, Shouting & Physical Abuse Are Normalised at Garment Factories That Chase Targets, Workers Like Seetha Remain In Perpetual Fight-and-flight Mode<\/p>[\/et_pb_text][et_pb_button button_url=”#extractive_labour” button_text=”Read Story” button_alignment=”center” _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” custom_button=”on” button_text_size=”17px” button_text_color=”#FFFFFF” button_bg_color=”#a3a3a3″ button_border_color=”RGBA(255,255,255,0)” button_border_radius=”32px” button_font=”Ubuntu|700|||||||” custom_margin=”-17px||20px||false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_button][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ admin_label=”Popup – #extractive_labour” module_id=”extractive_labour” module_class=”popup with-loader” _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” background_enable_image=”off” width=”100%” max_width=”100%” module_alignment=”center” custom_padding=”1px||3px|||” da_is_popup=”on” da_popup_slug=”extractive_labour” da_with_loader=”on” da_disable_devices=”off|off|off” border_radii=”on|10px|10px|10px|10px” global_colors_info=”{}” da_exit_intent=”off” da_has_close=”on” da_alt_close=”off” da_dark_close=”off” da_not_modal=”on” da_is_singular=”off” da_has_shadow=”on”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” background_image=”https:\/\/cividep.org\/workers-observatory\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/08\/bg.jpg” width=”100%” max_width=”100%” custom_margin=”0px|0px|0px|0px|false|false” custom_padding=”60px|60px|60px|60px|false|false” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” background_enable_image=”off” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_text _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” custom_padding=”|28px||28px|false|true” global_colors_info=”{}”]

<\/h2>\n

Desperately Seeking Respect<\/b><\/h2>\n

By Nikita Joseph<\/p>\n

<\/span><\/p>\n

Three months into her first job as a tailor at a Bengaluru garment factory, 20-year-old Seetha <\/span>(*name changed)<\/span><\/i> had had enough. A small error she had made incited her supervisor to yell and throw a bundle of cloth at her, even as her colleagues watched. She tried her best to stay on but she only lasted another three months, before she resigned in the hope of finding a better workplace.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

This was in 2007. More than 15 years on, the 36-year-old has concluded that her work environment is not going to change, no matter how many job hops she does. Seetha appeared for the interview tired, wary, and afraid of losing her job for talking about her experiences at four different factories in a decade.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIt is torture,\u201d is how Seetha described her work environment. From skipping lunches and toilet breaks to staying mum through coercion and abuse from supervisors, she has seen it all, so her employers can meet unrealistic production targets that seem to be increasing every other year.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Why Is Work \u2018Torture\u2019?<\/b><\/h3>\n

Seetha\u2019s is not an isolated experience. The Home And The World of Work report cites how in its survey of 184 Bengaluru garment workers , 100% and 61% of the local workers (those hailing from Karnataka) reported experiencing verbal and physical abuse (having a bundle of clothes thrown or a chair pushed at them) respectively. As many as 68% of the workers said that their factory imposed time restrictions on the use of the toilet, and these are enforced by controlling the number of visits and amount of time spent in the toilet, as well as through verbal abuse. Nearly 66% experienced physical isolation inflicted as a form of punishment and 39% had undergone sexual harassment.<\/p>\n

These methods are imposed <\/span>due to short lead times (time given by brands to contract manufacturers to deliver orders). There is intense pressure on shopfloors to complete work, and supervisors pass on the burden to workers through verbal, physical, and sometimes sexual abuse, and penalties. <\/span>The International Labour Organisation (ILO) refers to these extractive labour practices as situations in which persons are coerced to work through the use of violence or intimidation (<\/span>Read more<\/span><\/a>).<\/span><\/p>\n

Garment factories have been using such practices despite interventions and international outcry. Many of them have devised novel ways to extract more from their employees. At Seetha\u2019s second workplace, the d<\/span>ining room was strategically placed four floors above the shopfloor<\/span> so workers <\/span>would rather miss lunch and not \u2018waste\u2019 time using the stairs<\/span>. <\/span>\u201cThe days I managed to drink water once a day were memorable,\u201d she recalls.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The other tactic from the same employer was to force workers to do overtime (OT) regularly and give them a day off instead of the mandatory OT pay. This is illegal as workers should be paid double their wage rate for overtime work. Seetha says she prefers to earn more because the regular wage is low.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

No Break<\/b><\/h3>\n

When such work practices lead to physical ill-health, the workers find it humiliating to avail of sick leave. \u201cIf you\u2019re here just for time pass, you might as well sit at home,\u201d says the supervisor when workers go with leave requests. Permission is a long-drawn-out process – approvals have to come from the supervisor, floor-in-charge, Production Manager, HR, and sometimes, General Manager. Complaints lead to more work and penalties.<\/span><\/p>\n

Such practices have been normalised in the garment industry over the years.<\/span>\u00a0Among the respondents for the Home And The World Of Work (link) research study, about 82% of the local workers said that they did overtime work, while only\u00a0 58% of them were paid double for overtime work. In addition, about 70% of the workers said that they are asked to work on Sundays or other public holidays, but\u00a0 58% of them are given\u00a0 what is known as a compensatory off sometime during the week<\/span>, instead of the legally mandated overtime pay.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

At a point in her five-year tenure as a helper at factory number two, Seetha was fed up with being hauled up by her supervisor for every small \u2018mistake\u2019. In response, she garnered the strength to take an unexpected step. Once she countered her supervisor: \u201cI\u2019m doing my best to complete the work on time by not even eating lunch. If you can do what you are asking me to, I\u2019ll admit that I\u2019m at fault.\u201d Such a response only elicited more retribution.<\/span><\/p>\n

When things went beyond control, she reported her supervisor to Munnade Social Organisation, a Bengaluru<\/span>-based non-profit dedicated to the welfare of women garment workers. <\/span>The Production Manager was brought in and upon checking Seetha\u2019s machine, he accepted that she was right. He dismissed the supervisor and took her back to work.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

New Ways Of Control<\/b><\/h3>\n

Small victories like this remain exceptions, as strategies to systematise a culture of coercion continue. After the pandemic lockdowns, work pressures have intensified. The factory started appointing more female supervisors, touted under the garb of female empowerment. \u201cFemale supervisors can harass us more as they even follow us to the washrooms and lunch hall,\u201d says Seetha. \u201cThey come inside the washrooms and accuse us of taking breaks.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Seetha has witnessed how many former friends and peers have changed after being promoted to supervisors. \u201cThey don’t have the permission to remain friends and if they talk to some workers differently, they will be termed partial,\u201d she says. <\/p>\n

Seetha may not be surprised by these everyday betrayals, but she is not resigned to her fate. During the lockdowns, she engaged in piece-rate work from home for another factory, which did not pay two months\u2019 dues. Seetha decided to change her factory and is now at a marginally better workplace. Here, the latest by which workers can enter the gates is 9:15 am, after which they have to report late coming, whereas, in factory number 2, the gates were shut by 9:05 am. She is also paid the legal rate for overtime work now. Her current role, which involves stitching collars, does not come under a target-based system. These are only small changes, but Seetha feels much more relaxed about work than before.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Salaries across all factories remain abysmally low and hardly rise beyond Rs. 9,500 per month. Seetha has chronic back pain, headache, joint pain, and anaemia. She is the sole breadwinner of her family, as her husband has stopped economically supporting them. The one time her face lights up is when talking about her son, whom she has admitted into a computer science course at a private college. She dreams of a bright future for him, where he is respected at his workplace and free from abuse. And perhaps then, she can finally let go of a career that has taken much more than what it has given her. <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=”1″ admin_label=”Section” _builder_version=”4.27.2″ _module_preset=”default” background_color=”#efe7d7″ da_popup_slug=”download” da_disable_devices=”off|off|off” global_colors_info=”{}” da_is_popup=”off” da_exit_intent=”off” da_has_close=”on” da_alt_close=”off” da_dark_close=”off” da_not_modal=”on” da_is_singular=”off” da_with_loader=”off” da_has_shadow=”on”][et_pb_row _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_column type=”4_4″ _builder_version=”4.27.0″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”][et_pb_divider color=”#E09900″ divider_style=”dotted” divider_weight=”3px” _builder_version=”4.20.4″ _module_preset=”default” width=”100%” custom_margin=”||23px|||” global_colors_info=”{}”][\/et_pb_divider][et_pb_text module_id=”download” _builder_version=”4.27.2″ _module_preset=”default” global_colors_info=”{}”]

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